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Buying Guide
The Diamond Guide
DIAMONDS
Everything You Need to Know Before Bringing Home This Sparkling Gem
Popularly dubbed "a girl's best friend," diamonds have long been a symbol of opulence and timeless elegance, adored across generations.
Before you visit your nearest Khazana to explore our exquisite diamond collection, here are a few essential things to know about this glorious gem. Understanding what contributes to a diamond's beauty and value ensures that you choose not just a jewel, but also the right one.
While every diamond is unique and formed by nature, all diamonds are evaluated using a universal standard, developed by Gemological Institute of America (GIA), known as the 4Cs:
Cut, Colour, Clarity and Carat Weight
HERE'S BREAKING DOWN THE 4Cs
1. THE MANY CUTS OF A DIAMOND
The cut of a diamond refers to the number, shape, and precise alignment of its facets. More than just its form, the cut determines how beautifully a diamond reflects light, how securely it can be set, and how well it withstands the test of time.
Aside from colour and clarity, cut plays the most significant role in a diamond's brilliance and fire. A well-cut diamond displays exceptional sparkle, while a poorly cut stone may appear dark or dull.
When selecting a diamond, look for:
- Excellent symmetry
- Ideal proportions
- Fine finish
- Superior polish
The best interaction of light is achieved when a diamond is cut to ideal proportions, neither too deep nor too shallow.
Conventional Cuts
Round, square, and princess-cut diamonds are among the most popular choices. Their symmetry and versatility make them timeless favourites that maximise brilliance.
Hearts and Arrows Cut
The Hearts and Arrows cut is a precision variation of the round brilliant. When viewed from the top, a perfectly symmetrical arrow pattern appears. From the pavilion view, eight distinct heart-shaped patterns can be seen. This cut reflects exceptional craftsmanship and light performance.
2. THE COLOUR OF A DIAMOND
The colour of a white diamond is graded on a scale from D to Z.
- D represents completely colourless diamonds
- Z marks diamonds with a visible light yellow tint
This scale is divided into the following ranges:
D–F: The Colourless Range
These are the rarest diamonds. D and E are completely colourless, while F may show a very faint trace of colour when viewed face down. These diamonds are best set in white metals like platinum or white gold, which enhance their brightness.
G–J: Nearly Colourless
Diamonds in this range appear colourless when viewed from the top but may show slight warmth when examined closely against a white background.
K–M: Faint Yellow
Diamonds in this range display a subtle yellow tint, sometimes visible even face-up. They are beautifully complemented by yellow gold settings, which harmonise with their natural warmth.
When comparing diamonds, it is easier to detect colour differences when stones are at least two grades apart. Also, colour is most noticeable when viewed from the side rather than face-up.
3. DIAMOND CLARITY
Natural diamonds are formed deep within the Earth under immense heat and pressure. During this process, internal characteristics known as inclusions and external characteristics called blemishes may develop. Together, these are referred to as clarity characteristics.
Clarity is evaluated at 10× magnification, the global standard in diamond grading.
While most diamonds are not perfectly pure, the fewer and smaller the inclusions, the higher the value. The size, number, and position of inclusions can also influence durability.
Although a diamond is the hardest naturally occurring material on Earth, it is not indestructible. If a surface-reaching inclusion is present, a strong impact could affect the stone's durability. Always request complete clarity details before making your purchase.
The Universal Clarity Scale
- FL (Flawless) – No inclusions or blemishes visible under 10× magnification
- IF (Internally Flawless) – No inclusions visible under 10× magnification
- VVS1 & VVS2 (Very Very Slightly Included) – Inclusions extremely difficult to detect under 10× magnification
- VS1 & VS2 (Very Slightly Included) – Minor inclusions visible with effort under 10× magnification
- SI1 & SI2 (Slightly Included) – Inclusions noticeable under 10× magnification
- I1, I2 & I3 (Included) – Obvious inclusions that may affect transparency and brilliance
Diamonds in the SI range can offer excellent value, especially if the inclusion is positioned where it will be covered by the setting.
A common pairing approach:
- VS2 or higher clarity works beautifully with D–F colour
- SI clarity offers strong value when paired with G–I colour
Balancing clarity and colour helps you make a smart, well-informed decision.
4. CARAT WEIGHT
Carat refers to the weight of a diamond.
One carat equals 0.20 grams.
During the cutting process, up to two-thirds of a rough diamond's weight may be lost to achieve its final brilliance and shape. Because larger high-quality rough diamonds are far rarer than smaller ones, one 2-carat diamond costs significantly more than two 1-carat diamonds of comparable quality.
Beyond the 4Cs: Light Performance
Three additional qualities influence how a diamond appears:
- Brilliance – White light reflected to the eye
- Dispersion (Fire) – Light breaking into spectral colours
- Scintillation – The sparkle seen when the diamond, light source, or viewer moves
Together, these elements create the captivating glow that makes a diamond unforgettable.
Final Thoughts
With this knowledge, you're not simply choosing a beautiful gem; you're selecting brilliance, value, and a piece designed to last generations.
The next time you step into Khazana, you'll do so with confidence, clarity, and a deeper appreciation for the extraordinary craftsmanship behind every diamond.
The Gemstone Guide
Gemstone Buying Guide
Ruby | Emerald | Pearl | Coral
A Simple Guide to Buying Gemstone Jewellery
Gemstones are one of the oldest forms of adornment known to humankind. Long before they found their way into rings and necklaces, they were carried as talismans, offered to deities, and traded across continents. When you wear a gemstone, you are wearing something with a story that stretches back thousands of years.
This guide is for you, whether you are buying your first gemstone jewellery or adding to a collection. We have put together everything you need to know about the four gemstones at the heart of Khazana Jewellery: Ruby, Emerald, Pearl, and Coral.
Gemstones and South India: A Deep History
South India has one of the richest relationships with gemstones in the world. The region was a major hub of the ancient gem trade, and gemstones were woven into every aspect of life.
Temples and Ritual
Before gemstones became jewellery, they adorned temple idols. Rubies, emeralds, and pearls were set into the crowns, necklaces, and garments of deities. Gemstones were believed to carry divine energy, and offering them to a god was considered one of the highest acts of worship. Many of the most famous temple treasures in India still contain gemstones that have never been set into personal jewellery.
Navaratna: The Nine Gem System
One of South India's most enduring contributions to gem culture is the Navaratna, a setting of nine specific gemstones representing the nine celestial bodies in Vedic astrology. Ruby for the Sun, Pearl for the Moon, Coral for Mars, Emerald for Mercury, and so on. This tradition shaped how South Indians thought about gemstones: not just as beautiful objects, but as carriers of cosmic influence. You will still find Navaratna jewellery in every major jewellery store in South India today.
Trade Routes
South India sat at the intersection of major ancient trade routes. Pearls came from the Gulf of Mannar (between Tamil Nadu and Sri Lanka), which was one of the world's most prolific pearl fisheries for over 2,000 years. Rubies and sapphires came from Burma and Ceylon. Emeralds arrived via Arab traders. This access to a wide variety of gemstones meant South Indian craftsmen developed extraordinary skill in working with many different stones — a tradition that continues in the workshops of Chennai, Coimbatore, and Hyderabad today.
From Ritual to Ring: How Gemstones Entered Jewellery
First: Sacred Objects
The earliest use of gemstones was religious and protective. In ancient India, Egypt, and Mesopotamia, gemstones were placed in tombs, embedded in idols, and worn as amulets. Their colour was often what gave them meaning: red stones like rubies and coral were associated with blood, vitality, and fire. Green stones like emeralds were linked to fertility and nature. Lustrous white pearls were connected to the moon and purity.
Then: Medicine
For centuries, gemstones were used in Ayurvedic medicine. Ground pearl powder was prescribed for digestive ailments. Coral was used to treat blood disorders. Rubies and emeralds were set in medicinal preparations called bhasmas. The Charaka Samhita and Sushruta Samhita, two foundational Ayurvedic texts, both discuss the medicinal use of gems extensively. In some parts of India, this practice continues today.
Finally: Jewellery
As trade expanded and craftsmanship developed, gemstones moved from sacred objects and medicine into personal adornment. Royalty wore them first, as symbols of power, wealth, and divine favour. Over time, the tradition moved down through the social hierarchy. By the medieval period, gemstone jewellery was part of important life events: births, weddings, and religious ceremonies. That connection between gemstones and milestone moments is the one most alive today.
The Four Gemstones of Khazana
Ruby
"Ratnaraj" — The King of Gemstones
Ruby is a red variety of the mineral corundum (aluminium oxide). Its colour comes from chromium, and the intensity of that colour determines its value. The finest rubies have a rich, vivid red, sometimes described as "pigeon's blood," with a slight bluish hue.
Where It Comes From
The most prized rubies historically came from Burma (Myanmar), particularly the Mogok Valley. Sri Lankan rubies are lighter, often closer to pink. Thai rubies tend to be darker with a brownish tint. Today, rubies are also mined in Mozambique and Madagascar.
What to Look For
- Colour is the most important factor — look for a vivid, even red without too much brown or pink
- Clarity matters, but most natural rubies have some inclusions. A completely flawless ruby is very rare
- Cut affects how light reflects through the stone; a well-cut ruby should appear bright, not dull
- Treatments are common: heat treatment is widely accepted in the industry and improves colour and clarity
- Unheated rubies with a certification are rarer and more valuable
Emerald
"Panna" — The Stone of Mercury and Growth
Emerald is a green variety of the mineral beryl, coloured by chromium and vanadium. It is one of the four classical precious gemstones alongside ruby, sapphire, and diamond. Emeralds are softer than rubies and sapphires, which makes them more prone to chipping.
Where It Comes From
Colombia produces the most prized emeralds in the world — deep green, with a warm, slightly yellow or blue undertone. Zambian emeralds are darker and slightly more blue-green. Brazilian emeralds tend to be lighter. Indian emeralds, historically mined in Rajasthan, were important in Mughal jewellery.
What to Look For
- Colour should be a rich, deep green; the most valuable emeralds have no yellow or blue tint
- Inclusions are expected and accepted in emeralds. A clean emerald is often a sign of a synthetic stone
- Most emeralds are oiled (filled with resin or oil to improve clarity). This is standard industry practice
- Avoid emeralds with deep fractures on the surface, as these affect durability
- Handle emerald jewellery with care — avoid hard impacts and keep away from harsh chemicals
Pearl
"Moti" — The Gem Born of Water
Pearl is unique among the gemstones in this guide because it is organic — it is produced by a living creature. A pearl forms when an irritant enters an oyster or mussel, and the creature coats it with layers of nacre (a crystalline substance) over time. This process gives pearls their characteristic lustre.
Types of Pearls
Natural pearls, formed entirely without human intervention, are exceptionally rare and expensive. The vast majority of pearls in the market today are cultured pearls, where a nucleus is intentionally inserted into the oyster to initiate the process. Cultured pearls are real pearls; the only difference is that the process was started by humans.
The four main types of cultured pearls are:
- Akoya Pearls (Japan, China) — white to cream, very round, classic lustre
- Freshwater Pearls (China) — a wide variety of shapes and colours, more affordable
- Tahitian Pearls (French Polynesia) — naturally dark, grey to black, with overtones
- South Sea Pearls (Australia, Philippines, Indonesia) — the largest cultured pearls, white to golden
In South Indian Culture
Pearls, known as Moti or Muthu, have the deepest roots in South India. The Gulf of Mannar pearl fishery, which operated off the coast of Tamil Nadu and Sri Lanka, was one of the most famous in the ancient world. Pearls were worn by South Indian royalty and are still a staple of bridal jewellery, particularly in long pearl necklaces (known as Muthu mala), and in classic Hyderabadi multi-strand chokers. Pearl represents the Moon in the Navratna system and is associated with calm, purity, and emotional clarity.
What to Look For
- Lustre is the most important quality; a good pearl should appear to glow from within, not just reflect light off its surface
- Surface quality should be clean, with minimal pitting, spots, or wrinkles
- Shape: perfectly round pearls are the rarest and most valued, but baroque (irregular) pearls have their own appeal
- Nacre thickness matters for durability; thin nacre can chip or peel over time
- Matching matters in strands — look for even colour and size throughout the necklace
Coral
"Moonga" — The Gem of the Sea
Coral is an organic gemstone formed from the skeletal remains of marine polyps. The type used in jewellery is precious coral (Corallium rubrum and related species), found in the Mediterranean Sea and the waters around Japan and Taiwan. Its colours range from pale pink (known as Angel Skin) to deep ox-blood red.
Where It Comes From
Mediterranean coral, sourced from Italy, Spain, and North Africa, is the most historically prized, especially from Torre del Greco, Italy. Japanese and Taiwanese coral is also used widely in jewellery. Due to overharvesting and environmental pressures, genuine precious coral is becoming scarcer and more expensive.
What to Look For
- Colour should be even and consistent — deep red (ox-blood) is most valued, followed by salmon and pink
- Surface should be smooth and free of pits or cracks
- Dyed coral is common — test by rubbing with a damp cloth; genuine coral should not transfer colour
- Imitation coral made from plastic, glass, or resin is widespread; look for a natural, slightly waxy surface texture
Tips for First-Time Buyers
Know What You Are Buying
There is a difference between natural, synthetic, and imitation gemstones. Natural gemstones are formed in the earth (or sea, in the case of pearls and coral). Synthetic gemstones have the same chemical composition but are made in a laboratory. Imitation stones look like the real thing but are made of glass, plastic, or a different mineral entirely. All three can appear in the market. When in doubt, ask your jeweller directly.
Understand the Setting
The metal setting affects how a gemstone looks and how it holds up over time. Gold is the traditional choice for South Indian gemstone jewellery for good reason: it does not tarnish, holds stones securely, and complements warm-toned gems like ruby and coral particularly well. The purity of gold (22KT for traditional South Indian jewellery) affects both the colour and the durability of the piece.
Ask About Maintenance
Different gemstones require different care. Pearls and coral are soft and organic; they react to perfume, sweat, and acids. Emeralds need to be kept away from ultrasonic cleaners. Rubies are harder and more durable, but should still be protected from sharp impacts. Ask your jeweller how to clean and store your piece before you buy.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I know if a gemstone is real?
Visually, genuine gemstones tend to have natural inclusions and slight imperfections; a stone that looks absolutely perfect may be synthetic. Your jeweller should be able to answer questions about origin and treatment directly.
Q: What is the difference between a natural and a cultured pearl?
A natural pearl forms entirely on its own, with no human involvement. A cultured pearl is grown with the help of a human-inserted nucleus. Both produce real pearls with real nacre. Natural pearls are extremely rare and far more expensive. Most pearls in the market today are cultured pearls.
Q: Can I wear gemstone jewellery every day?
It depends on the gemstone. Rubies are hard and suitable for daily wear. Pearls and coral are softer and more vulnerable, better reserved for special occasions or worn with care, avoiding contact with perfume, water, and acids. Emeralds are beautiful but not ideal for rings or pieces that take regular impact.
Q: Does the colour of a coral affect its price?
Yes. Deep ox-blood red coral is the most prized and expensive. Lighter shades like salmon and pale pink (Angel Skin) are also valuable but less so. Consistent, even colour throughout the piece adds to value. Dyed coral, which is common in the market, should be priced lower than naturally coloured coral.
The Metal Guide
Your Gold Purchase Guide
An easy explanation of the basics of shopping for gold jewellery
In India, gold is more than a precious metal; it is a reflection of prosperity and auspicious beginnings. This belief stems from mythology, where gold was often associated with the adornment of deities. Bringing gold home was believed to invite blessings and good fortune for generations.
While gold carries deep sentimental value in India, it has also inspired remarkable innovation in jewellery design. As more people choose to invest in gold jewellery, whether for tradition or personal style, the demand for innovative designs and refined craftsmanship continues to grow. This is made possible by gold's exceptional malleability, allowing it to be shaped into intricate and enduring creations.
That said, here are the essential things you should know before bringing gold home.
Purity
Gold purity is measured in karats, and it plays a key role in determining value and durability.
24 karat (24K) gold is considered the purest form of gold, typically 99.9% pure. It has a deep yellow colour and rich lustre. However, pure gold is naturally soft and highly malleable, making it unsuitable for most jewellery pieces on its own.
To create jewellery that is durable enough for daily wear, gold is alloyed with other metals. This improves strength and hardness, but it also influences the colour of the final piece.
Gold in the 22K to 18K range is commonly alloyed with metals such as silver, copper, zinc, nickel, platinum, or palladium. Each metal contributes to both durability and tone.
Gold Purity Quick Guide
- 24 Karat (24K) – 99.9% pure gold
- 22 Karat (22K) – 91.6% pure gold
- 18 Karat (18K) – 75% pure gold
Higher karat means higher gold content but is lower in hardness. Lower karat means increased strength due to a higher percentage of alloyed metals.
Colour
In its purest form, gold has a rich metallic yellow lustre. However, when alloyed with other metals, it can display a range of shades, including white, rose (pink), and even subtle green tones.
Yellow Gold
Considered timeless, yellow gold is the most traditional and widely used form. It is typically alloyed with silver and copper to enhance durability.
Depending on the karatage (14K, 18K, or 22K), the tone may range from a soft yellow to a deeper, richer hue.
Yellow gold pairs beautifully with vibrant gemstones, enhancing their richness and depth while maintaining a classic aesthetic.
White Gold
White gold is harder than yellow gold due to its alloy composition. It is often mixed with higher percentages of white metals such as palladium or silver.
White gold is not naturally bright white. To enhance its appearance, it is electroplated with rhodium, a platinum-group metal known for its exceptional whiteness and hardness. Rhodium plating not only improves the brightness of the jewellery but also adds a protective layer that enhances scratch resistance.
Over time, rhodium plating may wear off and require re-plating to maintain its shine.
Rose Gold
Rose gold does not occur naturally. It is created by alloying gold with copper, along with small amounts of silver or zinc. The higher the copper concentration, the deeper the rose hue.
Rose gold is available in various purities and has gained immense popularity for its warm, contemporary appeal. It pairs beautifully with pink diamonds, pink sapphires, and tourmalines, while also complementing modern and minimalist designs.
Final Thoughts
Understanding purity, alloy composition, and colour helps you make an informed and confident purchase.
When you choose gold jewellery, you're not simply selecting a precious metal; you're investing in craftsmanship, tradition, and a piece that carries both value and meaning.
With the right knowledge, bringing gold home becomes a purchase that lasts generations.
